In the Mosh Pit of American Fashion – The New York Times

By on February 10, 2019

Yet there’s an argument to be made that it doesn’t necessary matter that the center did not hold. There are interesting things happening around the pretty raw edges. The edges, in fact, may be the new center. The sportswear that once defined this city still exists. It’s there at Tory Burch, in her mix of 1970s shades (navy, green, orange), collegiate cloth coats and pleated skirts; in her floral silks and leather patchworks and fringed ponchos and paillettes. There in Derek Lam’s haute pioneer plaids and architectural canvas skirts. Brandon Maxwell is still carrying the flame for uptown glamour of the Café Carlyle kind in silk, satin and moiré, as is Jason Wu, who has eyes on the red carpet with petal gowns of jewel-toned chiffon and befeathered columns.

But the tribalism so decried in politics — the communal bonding of the like-minded who would cast out everyone else — has had the opposite effect in fashion. Subcultures are popping up all over, and clothes are part of the glue that binds them.

As Ms. Latta said, explaining the label’s decision to collaborate with (of all other brands) Ugg: “We were sort of dumbfounded by the idea. But the definition of fashion is shifting.”

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